July 7 - Journey to Kaili (Part 1)


Ni Hao, Dear Blog Readers!

After careful consideration, Nancy (teaching partner) and I decided to journey off to Kaili for a few days. There was some miscommunication regarding the start teaching date here at this remote site, so we had a few days to ourselves.

We decided not to spend it here. We had not had any water for over 18 hours, and there is no sign that it is coming back on anytime soon. The Internet connection was only printing Chinese characters as I typed and the mosquitoes had about worn out our fly swatters.

I also needed to strike out to see if there was ANY bathroom alternative. The squatter toilet is difficult enough to manage, but especially when we were without any water for flushing (use your imagination).


Creatively, I had rigged up a chamber pot for my bedroom. Part of me believes I was a singer and lute player during the Renaissance in my previous life, so the chamber pot didn't seem much of a stretch (although I haven't been in the mood to hum madrigals, I must admit). However, the chamber pot has alleviated several anxieties I was harboring once darkness fell. Mainly, I was frightened that if I used the squatter at night, I would be greeted by a rat that had swum upstream to check out the situation. I do wish I had a chamber maid to empty the chamber pot in the morning, but alas, I am she, too...

Speaking of squatters... I'm told that many of the tourists coming to China for the Olympics will be experiencing these kinds of toilets in Beijing, too. Well, good for them! As I become more accustomed to these squatters I am convinced that they assist in the development of strong thigh muscles, a sense of humor, and a sense of true accomplishment on a daily basis. Can you tell that I am developing an intimate relationship with waste matter? For those of you who know me, you know that I am not the least bit squeamish about talking about anything. For those of you who don't know me as well, try to become adjusted to my candor.

Anyway, we actually did encounter another type of toilet facility in and around Kaili. It's more of a trough, really, with about a width of 8 inches. No privacy here - you just find a spot, straddle the trough and squat. I have learned a strategy that the "best" position in the trough sequence is where the line begins. At the front end, which is slightly elevated, there is sometimes running water. This causes the waste matter to be moved to the lowest part of the trough... which is the end position. Think of living in a mountainous region. It is always advantageous to live at the top of the mountain, as everything flows downward. Just in case you wanted to know, there is no toilet paper anywhere. So, I carry little packs of Kleenex for occasions when I visit the squatters. Any tissue cannot be thrown in the trough or squatter, so there are always little buckets for people to deposit their wiping papers. This is another reason the squatters are so darn smelly.

I must admit, though, that the design of buildings and villages integrates these facilities in an excellent way, as they are always placed at the back of the village or train station, etc... We truly do have much to learn from Chinese practicality and design that simply makes good sense. Nothing is wasted here, and recycling is truly a way of life.

FYI: I think I have killed one hundred mosquitoes as I have typed this in the last few minutes. They are everywhere and now look like speckled wallpaper on the blue paint in this room. I beg forgiveness from my Aunt Dottie, who once kept a moth alive all winter by feeding it sugar water on a cotton ball. I do not want to kill these creatures, but they will eat me alive if I don't. Yes, I am taking my malaria medication and am grateful that I am on this regimen of pills. I now have a new appreciation for all those brave soul Peace Corps volunteers.

Because I am having some trouble sending longer blogs, I will construct a Kaili Blog in installments. Right now I need to plan a few things for tomorrow's first class. We meet our students and we will also be having a rather la-de-da Opening Ceremony with many of the dignitaries in the area. It is a good thing our apartment's laundry machine is up and running tonight. We checked to see if the water was on, first thing, when we returned from Kaili and our spirits lifted tremendously when that water shot out of the spout! We are now in the practice of filling up covered buckets with water when the water is actually working. The covers prevent mosquitoes from being privy to additional breeding grounds. We have been told that the water sometimes goes off for six or seven days at a stretch.

More tomorrow on our adventures in Kaili! Enjoy the cush of your Western toilet, the closeness of your soft bathroom tissue, the way the waste matter magically disappears, and the fact that rats are a lot less interested in sharing your bathroom.

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